Lovage is a very old herb. It's unique flavor, which is a combination of anise and celery, can be used as a salt substitute, plus it gives extra flavor to vegetarian soups and stews. You can use it much like you would celery or parsley, but with a lighter hand since it does have a stronger flavor. Lovage works well in potato and tomato dishes, or anything in the starch category. Every part of the plant is edible!

Lovage is not a small, delicate plant. It will grow to about 6 foot after the first year. Plant it in a northern corner of the garden. One plant is enough for a family. It can take partial shade and does well in soil that is fairly fertile and not too dry. If you have a longer growing season, simply direct seed it outside. For a Potted Herb Garden, plant your Lovage in a large planter and provide the same growing conditions. In the north, start seeds indoors about 6 weeks ahead for transplanting, or buy a plant from a garden center. Germination takes about ten to twelve days. Lovage seed needs to be fairly fresh, and to make sure you get one good plant, sow at least 4 seeds in a pot. When you move the plant to the garden keep it well watered for the first couple weeks, and feed with a natural fertilizer. The first year you won't see it's full growth-it will only reach about 2 foot, but you can begin to harvest at a foot. Cut stems from the side, and chop to use in recipes.

Lovage seeds can also be harvested. They have a sweeter flavor than the leaves and can be used much like celery seed. A large seed stalk will form in early summer. Allow the seeds to ripen until they begin to turn brown, then cut the stalk and dry the seeds. If you do not want to harvest seeds than cut the stalk right away. If you leave it be, the plant will reseed in your garden. After several seasons dig up your Lovage in the spring and split the root. You can preserve or use the root by washing it, and cutting it into small pieces. Dry the pieces on a screen and store away from light. Or, you can give the root to a fellow gardener to plant and grow their own Lovage plant. A gift that will be much appreciated. The Lovage plant will do much better after division.

Lovage is best used fresh, but you can freeze the leaves and stems. Blanch a handful of leaves in boiling water VERY quickly then quickly throw into a bowl of ice water for a couple of minutes. Drain, place in plastic freezer bags and freeze. The frozen lovage can be minced and used in cooked dishes.

Lovage, Potato & Buttermilk Soup

2 1/2 oz Finely chopped onion
10 oz Corsely grated raw potato
Fresh young lovage leaves
1 1/4 pt Chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 pt Buttermilk, more if desired

Directions

Put the onion into a heavy-based saucepan. Add the stock and bring to boiling point very slowly so the onion begins to soften a little. Meanwhile coarsely chop a small handful (5 or so tablespoons) of lovage. Add the potato and herbs to the pan and pour on 1/2 pint buttermilk.

Increase the heat very slightly and bring the mixture to a bare simmer. Stir vigorously all the while as the potato starch will thicken the soup, which may stick to the pan base. Half-cover the pan and reduce heat as low as possible once again. Cook very gently indeed, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are perfectly tender.

Whisk the contents of the pan to a smooth puree. Season with salt and pepper and with extra lovage if you like. Whizz again and thin to taste with a little more stock or buttermilk. Reheat gently or chill thoroughly before serving, then garnish with a swirl of buttermilk and a small flotilla of chopped fresh lovage.

Source: Philippa Davenport in "Country Living" (British), May 1988.